Ningxia Day 5: Into the Heart of the Desert, 地球地心脏
11 September 2025
FIVE LAKES CROSSING (五湖穿越), TENGGER DESERT
Today took me beyond Ningxia’s borders and into Alxa Left Banner of Inner Mongolia. This was the part of the trip I had been looking forward to the most. Ever since I saw photos of the Wulan Lake (乌兰湖) on a Chinese reality TV show, the Five lakes Crossing has been quite at the top of my travel bucket list. Today, that anticipation finally turned into reality.
I crossed into Alxa Left Banner, heading towards the Five Lakes Crossing (五湖穿越) route in the Tengger Desert. The moment we left paved roads behind, the scenery shifted dramatically with vast dunes rolled endlessly into the horizon. When we reached the desert, we met the driver who would take us through the Tengger Desert. My female guide came along too.
This is the jeep that took me across the sand dunes.
The Five Lakes Crossing itself felt a bit like a desert roller coaster. The ride is done in a jeep, and you can actually let the driver know whether you prefer a calmer ride or a more thrilling one. I went for the more adventurous option, and honestly, I thought it was quite alright. The jeep climbed and dipped over the sand dunes, bouncing and gliding in a way that was exhilarating rather than scary.
That said, it can get quite bumpy. I’d read online that many people experience motion sickness during the ride, so I took motion sickness pills beforehand even though I don’t usually get carsick easily. Thankfully, I didn’t feel nauseous at all. For those who are prone to motion sickness, I’d definitely recommend taking medication in advance, just in case. It’s also worth noting that the ride might be a little tough on the back, especially for children or elderly companions, so it’s something to be mindful of if you’re travelling with family.
Despite the name Five Lakes Crossing, you don’t actually stop at all five lakes. In reality, visitors usually get to visit three of them, while the remaining two are viewed from a distance as the jeep passes by. Even so, they were still fascinating to spot. The five lakes are:
(1) Swan Lake (天鹅湖):
An oasis in the desert, featuring clear lake water, grasslands, and crooked trees. It is a great spot for photography and also a habitat for migratory birds.
(2) Wulan Lake (乌兰湖): Known as the “Heart of the Earth”, the lake turns a vivid red during the summer. From an aerial view, it resembles a beating heart, creating a truly stunning sight.
(3) Camel Lake (骆驼湖): Famous for its dreamy pink waters, it has the softest and prettiest colour among the Five Lakes. There wasn’t much water when I visited in September, and salt had crystallised across parts of it, so we could walk on the lakebed. I’d bring shoe covers if you plan to do that.
(4) Dragon Eye Emerald Lake (龙眼翡翠湖): Also called the “Eye of Emerald.” Its water is emerald green, shaped like an eye, with highly saturated colours that make it extremely photogenic.
(5) Guitar Lake (吉他湖): When viewed from above, the lake closely resembles a guitar.
The jeep sped past the last two lakes rather quickly, and since I didn’t realise we wouldn’t be stopping, I didn’t think to ask. So, sadly, I didn’t manage to get any good photos of these two. In hindsight, you probably can request the driver to slow down or pause. Definitely something worth keeping in mind if you’re hoping to capture them on camera.
The Dragon Eye Emerald Lake quickly taken at a poor angle.
The Guitar Lake taken at a similarly poor angle. It looks more so like a steak to me than a guitar.
This is the swan lake, the first lake that we visited.
Wulan Lake was easily the most popular stop along the route, and I personally found it the most fascinating. Its deep red water stood out vividly against the sand dunes, and when viewed from above, the lake unmistakably resembles a beating heart. Hence, it is also known as the Heart of the Earth (地球地心脏). It looks rather unreal, like something you’d expect to see only in AI generated photographs.
A simple sign in the vast desert marking the Wulan Lake.
A drone photoshoot is included as part of the Five Lakes Crossing experience. I’m not sure if this varies from driver to driver, but mine loves taking photos and there didn’t seem to be any strict limit on the number of photos or videos. The driver just kept shooting until you’re happy. He even guided me on how to pose. In my case though, since I’m not very good at posing and tend to look awkward in photos, it felt more like he took photos until he was satisfied. If you’re anything like me and don’t quite know what to do in front of a camera, it might be a good idea to look up a few poses beforehand. He sent over the raw files afterwards—unedited, I think, but more than good enough for me!
Aerial shot of the Wulan lake. It really looks like a heart beating quietly in the middle of the desert, like as though the Tengger itself is alive. I have friends who say it looks like a strawberry though.
Wulan Lake up close.
Camel lake up close. It is a really pretty pink. Photos really do not do this place justice.
You can actually walk on the lake! The salt has crystallised out. If you looked closely, there is salt on my jeans because my driver made me sit to take photographs at Wulan Lake.
There are actually camels at Camel Lake.
Another pleasant surprise was that my driver had brought along a sandboard, and it was wild. Sliding down from that height was so much fun. Climbing back up the dune was another story. At one point I genuinely wondered whether I might be stuck at the bottom forever. There was hardly anyone else around when we visited. I was glad my guide was with me; if I were travelling solo, I’d want to know who would accompany me into such a remote area.
My gosh. The cardio from walking back up the slope.
I would strongly recommend the crossing. The lakes were beautiful, the drive was memorable, and sandboarding was ridiculous fun. To top it off, our driver treated us to cold skin noodles (凉皮) afterwards.
I loved the peanutty taste of the cold skin noodles.
BACK TO YINCHUAN: NINGXIA WOLFBERRY ENGINEERING INSTITUTE
After the desert adventure, we returned to Yinchuan for a very different kind of stop: the Ningxia Wolfberry Engineering Institute (中国宁夏枸杞工程院).
Ningxia is famous for its wolfberries (goji berries), often called the best in China, and visiting the institute offered insight into why. Here, wolfberries aren’t just a local product but also the result of careful research, cultivation, and innovation. From fresh berries to dried produce, teas, and health supplements, it was fascinating to see how something so small plays such a big role in the region’s identity and economy.
An unplanned stop at the Ningxia Wolfberry Engineering Institute on our way back to Yinchuan.
Wolfberries growing outside the institute.
Looking down at the wolfberry production line.
A peek into the institute’s lab, where we learned more about Ningxia’s famous wolfberries.
THE CUTEST FOOD DELIVERY
Back at the hotel, a friend from Ningxia ordered food delivery for me, and the cutest little delivery robot brought it right to my room!
This polite little robot bringing the food up to my room!
Dinner delivered to my hotel room: dumplings with a spicy broth, and a little side of pickled vegetables.
And a drink to go with dinner.
ALL IN ALL…
Day 5 felt like a beautiful contrast. In the morning, I was deep in the Tengger Desert, surrounded by raw landscapes that felt untouched by time. By afternoon, I was back in the city, learning about a humble berry that has sustained livelihoods for generations.
It was a day that captured what I’ve come to love about this journey — stillness, resilience, and moments of quiet wonder.
Love,
Shu
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