Ningxia Day 3: Zhongwei Shapotou (中卫沙坡头)

09 September 2025

MORNING AT STAR HOTEL (沙漠星星酒店)

I set my alarm early because I really wanted to catch the sunrise. When I stepped out of my room, I was greeted by this huge, round, orange sun hanging low over the desert. It looked exactly like a salted egg yolk glowing in the sky. I felt so exhilarated just looking at it.

The desert sunrise. The sun was glowing like a salted egg yolk. It was absolutely worth waking up for.

Without even thinking, I ran up the sand dune in front of the hotel, the cool morning air brushing against my face. Standing at the top, watching the sunlight slowly spill across the dunes, I remember thinking that this alone made waking up early worth it.

Golden light spilling over the dunes.

Spotted this shiny blue beetle making its way across the sand under the morning light.

The moon remains visible in the sky after the sun has risen.

I then went for breakfast after catching the sunrise.

宋试点茶体验 — WHISKING TEA, SONG-DYNASTY STYLE

After breakfast, I joined an activity offered by the Star Hotel called 宋试点茶 — a traditional Song-Dynasty tea-whisking ceremony. It was a lovely surprise; while I’d known that green tea could be whisked, I never realised it could turn so foamy that you could actually draw on it, almost like doing latte art, but with matcha.

The calm and elegant space used for the Song-style tea whisking session.

The session began in the most calming way. The instructor lit a stick of 沉香 (agarwood incense), filling the space with a warm, meditative scent. As the soft smoke drifted through the air, it felt like stepping into another time. But soon, the serenity gave way to effort — whisking continuously by hand to create that perfect layer of froth turned out to be quite the arm workout!

Each participant had their own tea setup. Everything was neatly laid out, from the bamboo whisk to the tiny bowls of green tea powder. Spot the gentle curls of smoke from the agarwood incense.

The start of whisking — it quickly turned into a full arm workout! The goal was to create a perfectly smooth layer of froth.

The foam is starting to form.

Still, it was an enjoyable and eye-opening experience. Watching the smooth foam form under the bamboo whisk was strangely satisfying. We then  “painted” small designs on the surface of the tea. This activity is opened to adults only, probably because of the precision and patience it requires.

Tadah! My masterpiece. Can you tell what I was trying to draw?

ONE LEAF STARRY SKY TENT HOTEL (中卫一叶星空酒店)

After the tea whisking session, I checked out of Star Hotel and my driver came to pick me up for the next stay, which was at One Leaf Starry Sky Tent Hotel (中卫一叶星空酒店). It was just a short drive away, maybe around 15 minutes, and I mainly wanted to experience glamping for the first time.

Rows of cream-coloured glamping tents under the desert sky at One Leaf Starry Sky Tent Hotel

It felt quite similar to Star Hotel in terms of service. Upon arrival, I received a wristband for transport to and from Shapotou, as well as an entrance ticket. Once you’re done exploring, you can simply call the hotel, and they’ll send a shuttle to pick you up — very convenient! Also similar to Star Hotel, One Leaf Starry Sky Tent Hotel sits right in the middle of the desert, so you can go sandboarding or simply play around in the sand dunes anytime you like. The hotel also organises its own activities for both children and adults, which makes it a nice place for families too.

The hotel offers a full day of activities, from sand crafts to stargazing lectures. You could easily spend an entire day here without leaving the desert. Majority of the activities (those that are starred) are free.

Daily Programme | One Leaf Starry Sky Tent Hotel

9:30 – 10:30

Great Desert Expedition (大漠远征)

Desert trekking, plant observation, and ecology exploration.

10:30 – 11:30

Sand Treasure Hunt (沙漠寻宝)

Unearth mysterious treasures hidden in the desert sand.

11:30 – 12:30

Creative Workshop (创意工坊)

Make beautiful sand art paper fans.

13:30 – 14:30

Creative Workshop (创意工坊)

Artistic experience: clay painting on canvas.

14:30 – 15:30

Creative Workshop (创意工坊)

Handmade desert aromatherapy candles (¥38 per person).

15:30 – 16:30

Creative Workshop (创意工坊)

DIY colored sand painting (¥28 per person).

17:30 – 19:00

Observation Activity (观察活动)

Teenage astronomy film viewing.

19:30 – 20:00

Star Lecture (星空课堂)

Introductory astronomy talk — learn the basics of stargazing.

20:30 – 21:00

Starry Sky Lecture (星空讲解)

Conducted by professional astronomers, guiding you through constellations and celestial phenomena.

21:00 – 21:30

Outdoor Stargazing (室外)

Enjoy a romantic night under the stars (weather permitting).

I suppose the main difference between Star Hotel and Starry Sky Tent Hotel lies in the toiletries and amenities. Star Hotel feels a little more premium — they even provide a Dyson hairdryer with multiple attachments. But if you’re not too fussy and just want a comfortable stay, Starry Sky Tent Hotel definitely offers better value for money. Also, it is cosy, family-friendly, and I’m sure children would love the novelty of staying in a tent surrounded by soft sand and open sky.

As for the tent — it was surprisingly comfortable! It had air-conditioning, a heater, and even its own bathroom and toilet. Honestly, it didn’t feel much different from staying in a regular hotel room. The only minor challenge? The tent’s zipper door. It was quite stiff and hard to open or close properly… so in the end, I just unzipped a small opening and crawled in and out each time.

My home for the night.

Inside my tent — cozy, air-conditioned, with its own bathroom.

SHAPOTOU, YELLOW RIVER SIDE (沙坡头黄河区)

After checking into Starry Sky Tent Hotel, I headed back to Shapotou, this time to explore the Yellow River side (黄河区). Again, while the entrance is free for hotel guests, you will still need to pay for the activities inside the scenic area.

At the entrance of Shapotou Yellow River Side.

You can get a really good view of the yellow river right at the entrance.

I tried several activities here, starting with sandboarding, which looked much steeper than I expected. Standing at the top of the slope, it did look quite intimidating, and I hesitated for a second. But once I got on, it wasn’t scary at all. Each sandboard has a lever control that lets you adjust the speed. Even at top speed, there wasn’t that “drop” feeling you get from a roller coaster, so it was actually very enjoyable. In the end, it turned out to be a lot more fun (and much less terrifying) than it looked from above! There’s also a photographer stationed at the slope taking pictures as you slide down. You can choose to purchase them later if you’d like to keep a memento — so remember to smile as you go down!

The entrance to the sandboarding area.

The slope feels much higher and steeper from the top. The sand here isn’t the super soft, loose kind, and it’s actually quite compact.

Then I went for a ride on the sheepskin raft (羊皮筏子), which is an experience along the Yellow River. The sheepskin rafts are traditional rafts made by inflating actual sheepskins and they used to be a primary mode of transport for people living along the Yellow River. There was a boatman rowing the raft, and he even sang traditional folk songs along the way, which made the experience more interesting. That said, I have to admit... it didn’t feel entirely steady or trustworthy. The raft wobbled slightly with every movement, and I couldn’t help imagining what would happen if we tipped over — falling into the muddy Yellow River would definitely not be fun! Thankfully, the water was not very fast-moving that day, and the short ride ended safely.

Inflated sheepskin used to make the traditional rafts — each one filled with air and sealed by hand. Once tied together, they form the buoyant base of the famous 羊皮筏子 (sheepskin raft) that floats on the Yellow River.

Boatman rowing the traditional sheepskin raft down the Yellow River while singing folk songs.

Look at how murky the water of the Yellow River is.

The inflated sheepskins are tied beneath wooden planks. After the ride, the boatman will hoist the raft out of the waters.

Spotted a few bins shaped like the sheepskin raft. Cute!

After the raft ride, I took the speedboat (快艇) back to where we started. The ride itself was short but refreshing — a quick burst of wind and splashes of muddy river water. Nothing too dramatic, but it was a nice contrast to the slow pace of the sheepskin raft.

Switching from ancient to modern — hopping onto a speedboat right after the sheepskin raft ride for a breezy return journey.

I then explore the area a little before making my way to the glass bridge.

This is more greenery at this side of Shapotou.

There is this tiny glass bridge that you can have a better view of the Yellow River.

The view from atop the mini glass bridge.

I also walked across the glass bridge, which I had been both curious and a little nervous about. Before entering, everyone is required to put on shoe covers, probably to keep the glass clean so it stays see-through. These glass bridges have become a bit of a phenomenon across China in recent years. They’re designed not just for the view, but also for the thrill and novelty of the experience — combining adventure with social media appeal. Some are even fitted with sound or vibration effects to heighten the excitement (not this one though and thankfully there wasn’t that stomach-dropping sensation I had imagined!). To be honest, the view wasn’t exactly breathtaking. The Yellow River below was muddy — not the kind of beautiful, sparkling blue you might imagine when you think of rivers. But the Yellow River itself is deeply symbolic in Chinese culture and history. It is often called “Mother River of China” (中华母亲河), since many of China’s earliest dynasties and agricultural communities began along its fertile banks. It’s been both a source of life and destruction — nurturing millions, but also flooding countless times throughout history. So even though it wasn’t exactly a picturesque view, it felt special in its own way — like looking down at a river that has seen centuries of stories flow past.

The glass bridge is actually quite long.

You can see the yellow river flowing beneath your feet.

You may also see the sheepskin raft passing by beneath your feet.

The Yellow River itself was incredibly muddy — a deep ochre colour that almost looked like flowing clay. Seeing it in person made me understand the Chinese saying,

“跳进黄河也洗不清”

(“Even if you jump into the Yellow River, you still can’t wash yourself clean.”)

It’s such an apt description — the river really lives up to its name.

I'm not sure if it is because I had planned the route wrongly, but it was a long way back to the entrance of Shapotou to return back to the pick up point for my hotel shuttle. But the skies were super beautiful while I waited for the shuttle to arrive.

I was pleasantly surprised to see rays of sunlight breaking dramatically through the clouds.

BACK AT ONE LEAF STARRY SKY TENT HOTEL

Back at the hotel, I was honestly too lazy to unzip my tent (it takes real effort), so I went straight for dinner instead. After that, I decided to wait for the sunset. You can already see it clearly from right outside the tent, but I figured it would look more majestic from atop one of the nearby sand dunes. Standing there, I watched as the sun slowly sank into the horizon, painting the dunes in shades of gold and orange.

Dinner at One Leaf Starry Sky Tent Hotel.

You can see the sun setting from the tent as well.

But watching the sun set atop the dunes just felt different.

Watch the video to see the sunsetting. The video has been sped up.

The wind began to pick up, and it was beautiful to see the sand drift and dance across the desert surface — like nature’s own slow-motion performance.

Watch the sand drifting as the wind blows.

When the air turned cooler and the gusts stronger, I made my way back to the tent to rest for a while before heading out again for the stargazing session.

STARGAZING AT ONE LEAF STARRY SKY TENT HOTEL

The last activity for the night was stargazing at the hotel’s Stargazing Valley (观星谷), one of the signature experiences they offer. I decided to skip the astronomy lecture this time since I’d already attended one the night before at Star Hotel.

Honestly, I didn’t have high hopes of seeing the Milky Way as the moon was even brighter than yesterday, and the clouds looked thick enough to hide everything. For a while, there were barely any stars to be seen. Still, I really liked the atmosphere of the Stargazing Valley. It felt more secluded, right in the middle of the desert, and there were these comfortable sofa chairs (take note that the chairs are a bit sandy though) where you could just lie back and look up at the sky.

A trail of warm lanterns leading into the stargazing valley.

The moon remained round and bright that night.

You can see the stars hiding behind the clouds.

Lots of stars over the dune.

It was such a cool experience just being there. As the night went on, the clouds slowly drifted away, and more stars began to reveal themselves — faint but shimmering quietly in the vast desert sky.

When the clouds drifted away, the sky revealed a quiet scattering of stars.

AS THE DAY DREW TO A CLOSE...

I thought about how the day felt like a perfect balance of energy and calm — from whisking tea in the quiet morning light, to chasing the sunrise across the dunes, to feeling the rush of wind and sand at Shapotou.  I loved how the day unfolded gently yet fully, each moment offering something different — a hint of history, a touch of adventure, and a lot of stillness in between.

By nightfall, lying under the wide desert sky at Stargazing Valley, I realised that even when the Milky Way didn’t show, the beauty was still there — in the hush of the wind, the faint shimmer of stars, and the simple feeling of being exactly where I was. So perhaps, beauty doesn’t always need to dazzle; sometimes, it simply asks that we pause, look up, and be still.

Love,

Shu